Even though I am here on a year-long visa I am still required to leave the country once every 90 days. This is actually pretty great, because it gives me a ready-made excuse to see some of the surrounding area. My first visa run was to Laos.
After a somewhat hectic couple days of mid-term preparation and test-giving, Stacey and I waved good-bye to our students and walked off down the road. We opted to take the bus to Udon Thani (a 12 hour journey), another bus from Udon Thani to Nong Khai (1 1/2 hours) and then a van ride from Nong Khai to Vientiane (45 minutes). With all of that, plus waiting around at the border for our Lao visas, it was a long trip. Making it even longer was the fact that the bus was freezing and I had unwisely chosen the seats in front, making it seem extremely perilous as we careened down dark mountain roads. Many of the long distance buses have the passenger area raised higher than the driver, so you really get the full experience from up there. I still managed to get some sleep, which was especially helpful because then I was unaware of how much the driver was talking on his cell phone while driving.
Once we arrived in Vientiane (the capital of Laos) we bought bus tickets for the next portion of our journey - the four hour ride to Vang Viang. This actually proved to be an amazing trip. We passed through small villages and some of the most beautiful scenery. I didn't have any expectations starting out and then I began to find my window more interesting than my book. Going around each curve was interesting, once we saw a work elephant on the road, later a beautiful waterfall cascading down the side of a distant mountain.
Soon, we were crossing a large dirt field and found ourselves in what is aptly described as a backpacker haven that hasn't lost it's local charm. I found this description hard to believe until I saw it for myself. Actually, as I write about Vang Vieng, you will probably still find it hard to believe, as the description has "touristy!!!" written all over it. At any rate, we took a sawng tao to our bungalow "Le Jardin Organique", and collapsed gratefully on our surprisingly comfortable beds.
After getting settled, we found ourselves at a local, nondescript, restaurant because it looked like they would have steak and I really wanted steak. We began to see that what we had heard about the town was true - almost every restaurant plays "Friends" - so the clientele can have a proper TV dinner. For our first night there, it was actually a relief. I allowed my brain to be numbed by the hypnotizing banter and numb to the idea that my steak was not what I had hoped!
The next morning we found our way to a little restaurant that served Lao coffee, and really good lime and honey crepes. With some food in our stomachs and a much-needed caffeine jolt, we were ready for the day. Our plans were not, however, ambitious. We put on our swimsuits and headed for our tubing trip down the river.
This turned out to be a lot of fun. It was extremely relaxing, the sun was out, and the water was clean and cool. It wasn't long however, before I found myself headed for an outgrowth of brush in the middle of the river. Unable to stop I swept into it and promptly got stuck - good-bye Stacey! Moments later another girl became stuck also, while her friend had managed to avoid the brush and continue down the river. She was a bit scared, but after some coaxing she got out. Sadly, in the process of moving her direction to help, I became even more stuck. Actually, I can't say I was too upset. As others floated past down the river their faces were a source of amusement. Eyebrows raised as they realized a person was "beached" and had become part of the scenery! Eventually I climbed slightly outside my intertube (carefully, of course, so as not to have it swept away without me aboard!), gingerly walked on the branches, and got my intertube dislodged. Ahhh, then my relaxing journey continued until I saw Stacey just up the river at one of the many bar/restaurants waiting for me. After a less than graceful exit from my tube, I made it to mats laid out above for good views of the river, and a nice Lao beer (which actually isn't bad, by the way). While there we met the other girl who had become stuck (who's "life passed before her eyes" or something to that effect!) and her friend. They were both from Israel and had been traveling extensively throughout SE Asia. We continued our trip down the river with them and arranged to meet up later that night.
Considering that we had had a lazy early afternoon we decided it was time for a little exertion. We had heard that we should go swimming in the Blue Lagoon. This sounded tempting, so we rented bikes and headed down the road. We had heard that the going would be rough, but soon it was jolting. We found our way to the "Blue Lagoon" while assuring the young boys who collected our fee that no, we did not need a guide. After a short hike, we found the cave and made our way in. This is where it gets interesting. We forgot a flashlight. Not wanting to abandon our quest, one of us came up with the bright idea (ha ha) of using the camera's flash to illuminate our way. This was okay, in that we saw the general direction to go, but frankly it was creepy. We decided that it wasn't such a great idea after all and turned around to see if the boys had a flashlight we could borrow. Outside the cave we looked at the pictures we had taken and had a laugh as images captured me almost falling (hey! it was dark!) and a Buddha! We hiked back, asked for a flashlight, expected to be asked for money, and were pleasantly surprised when the boys kindly handed it over. (This attitude seems prevalent in this little town, which is probably where it gets the reputation of still having charm!) We headed back into the cave and followed random arrows chalked on the wall. We navigated some rather harrowing holes and ledges, all the while wondering where this elusive Lagoon was. I also couldn't help but contrast this popular tourist attraction to those in the States. For example, I think we are used to having all of the seriously dangerous things roped off, steps carved to just the right level of danger for the average person to feel adventurous but not as if their life is threatened, and over-all hand-holding. All of this was lacking - that and the presence of any other people. Soon, we were climbing through smaller and smaller holes, and then we found ourselves in a tunnel that continued to become more and more narrow. For instance, I have now gotten to do the army crawl through mud, in semi-darkness. I was starting to think this was not headed towards the Blue Lagoon and Stacey was feeling the same. I also was getting slightly claustrophobic, thinking about getting stuck in there. We turned around and headed back, feeling slightly defeated for not having found the Blue Lagoon, but really good overall. We had a little adventure! And it was really fun! There were a lot of laughs, jumps of surprise (random bugs you've never seen before will do that to you!) and a sense of having done something we wouldn't normally have done. It did turn out we had entered the wrong cave. We never did have time to see the Blue Lagoon, but I can't say I feel much regret.
That night we had a good meal at a local restaurant that amazingly did not play "Friends". Instead, we were distracted by the TV in back that was playing Thai soaps. I have never in my life seen a group of girls in heels beat a cowering young man with a rind of durian fruit. I probably never will again, but I'm glad I have. Later we met the two Israeli girls at the "Oh la la Bar" (these names...) and had a good chat. Then we turned in early and rested our weary bones.
Our final morning in Vang Viang lacked any real diversion. We went into a different breakfast place that had a very European air. I was thinking it would have amazing French pastries (Lao is known for it's French influence after all) but they were only so-so. After packing up we got ready for another bus ride, back to Vientiane.
In my opinion, Vientiane is unremarkable. There is not much to see or do and it was overcast and rainy most of the time we were there. However! - there are restaurants with amazing, and cheap, French food. And to me this is very important. Our first night in town, a Friday, we ate at La Terrasse. I had a tender steak that was cooked just right, amazing vegetables, tasty bread, good wine (wow - it does exist in this part of the world), excellent coffee and a tarte citron that was just how I remember - all for under US$15. I guess this was one of those extremely worthwhile splurges, and one I will not have again for some time. The next morning my taste buds were happy again as I had scrambled eggs, french bread, a croissant, coffee, and orange juice at the French Bakery. Sigh! It was so good and the bread tasted just right. We repeated this breakfast the next day. We also found a place that made very good pizza just north of Nam Phou Place and ate sandwiches at Le Croissant d'Or.
We also checked out the morning market, Patouxai (a slight imitation of the Arc de Triomphe), Khop Chai Dew, and got massages.
So, I would have to say it was rather relaxing. Sunday afternoon we started our trip back across the border on a direct bus from Vientiane to Udon Thani. After a quick "Pizza Hut" type dinner in Udon Thani we made it to the other bus station for our 12 hour ride home. This time around we sat a few seats back, and the air conditioning was reasonable. It made the fact that the vents dripped a little easier to take.
It was a good trip. I enjoyed seeing more of the world. However, it was so good to get back to my students and my job here. It just feels right!
