Thursday, November 29, 2007

Cambodia 2

Can you believe this is a gas station???

I had visions of using numerous modes of transportation this trip. As it was we took a sawng-tao, a bus, a plane, a boat, a tuk-tuk, and a taxi. I had kind of hoped to get a train in there. Actually, we did take the Sky Train in Bangkok. And, of course, our legs.

Transportation can really add to an experience, so we decided to take a boat back to Phnom Penh from Siem Reap. This way we were able to see some different scenery. I found the villages in the middle of the lake fascinating. I suppose for part of the year they are on dry ground and motorbike around like most. But in the rainy season the stilts on their houses come in really handy. Then they take small boats from place to place. Otherwise, the boat ride was interesting because we sat on top. And by on top, I just mean on top. We climbed over railings and stretched out our legs. We did get pretty wet at some parts of the trip. But it was actually a pretty good ride. Plus, it was nice to be out in the fresh air. Even though the sun hardly poked out, we got sunburns.
Village on stilts.

When we arrived back in Phnom Penh, we headed back to the Okay Guesthouse. We decided to tour the Palace that afternoon. I had wanted to go just to see the Silver Pagoda. We walked around the whole place and couldn't find it. After looking it up when I got home, I believe we were in it and didn't even know. How disappointing. But the rest of the Palace was interesting, and we saw some government official as we left. The whole street was closed off and an important looking guy waved to the "crowds" on his way into the palace.

That night, we went to an artist's market. I actually hope the idea catches on (as it was the first weekend) because artists and non-profits sold their own work (or the works of their members) and the money went to projects to encourage local artists. They had some very beautiful things on display. The area near the market and along the water was packed with people. The atmosphere was festive and the square in front of the Palace was full. Vendors were out selling popcorn along with the usual street food. Some people were even grilling on small, portable grills. It was a very happy scene. Later we found out why - we were regaled with fireworks since Friday had been Cambodian Independence Day.
Part of the palace and festivities.

Monday morning was more sober. We headed over to the Genocide Museum (Tuol Sleng - former Khmer Rouge S-21 prison) in an effort to learn a little bit about Cambodia's past. After about 2 1/2 hours of wandering through what had once been a prison, I was emotionally and mentally drained. It took more of a toll on me than I had thought it would. I don't really feel like I know enough about what happened to go into a lot of depth. I still can't keep it all straight after reading about it. But I do know that it was very sad. The prison had once been a school. The chalkboards are still up. And it was so strange to think that what had once been a place for children was changed to an extermination area, and is now a museum. It was especially weird because it was a beautiful day. The sun was out, the trees and grass were green. But inside the classrooms, which were changed to house prisoners, you could still see, very graphically in fact, what had happened to the people there. It is strange, too, because it happened only about 30 years ago. The other incredibly bizarre thing (to me at any rate) was that pictures were taken of all the people brought to the prison along with short bios. These pictures are currently on display. It was so strange looking at the faces of little kids and feeling like they were so innocent. I actually can't explain it all because it's just too depressing and I'll let you all find out on your own time! I'm glad that I went, if only to be oh so appreciative that my childhood was a walk in the park. I felt more philosophical and contemplative about it a couple weeks ago just after I saw the museum and read about the Khmer Rouge.
Tuol Sleng

On Monday afternoon we got on a plane for the flight to Bangkok. Then after our 9 hour bus ride we arrived in Chiang Mai Tuesday morning, ready for a day of classes. Two visa runs down, one more to go. Hmmm, I wonder where that one will lead us?

1 comment:

Aimee said...

HOPEFULLY that one final visa run will lead you to Minneapolis - I can show you all sorts of interesting touristy places! We have ruins (old mills along the river - how very quaint does that sound!) and "watering holes", as we call them in the US - and I believe there's one called "Pscyho Suzi's" that recently reported its annual profits are down 75% since your departure from the nation.

No, but in all seriousness - that post was really amazing. The houses on stilts amaze me - the architectural student in me could really dig into that and write about all sorts of interesting (ie, intellectual-sounding) things - plus, can you just imagine?? They designed that way to react to a need - the need NOT to have their houses washed away every rainy season. So why didn't they just rebuild in a NON-wash out area? Well, there must've been some reason they had to live right there in those spots, and I'd really like to know why.

And then Tuol Sleng was just really sobering. I've heard stories about the Holocaust Museum and some of their exhibits, but this honestly sounds just as emotionally affecting - especially since it's practically within our lifetimes.

What an amazing trip. I'm so glad you're having this experience. Miss you sooo much!